Naxos · Greece · Things to do
Naxos in three days: the Portara, old town and villages
Three days is enough to see the best of Naxos. Spend the first in Naxos Town, at the Portara and the old town; the second on the west coast beaches such as Agios Prokopios; and the third inland, in the mountain villages of Halki and Apeiranthos or on the trail up Mount Zas. Naxos is the largest island in the Cyclades and easy to drive.
What to do, in order
- 1
The Portara
The Portara is a huge marble doorway on the islet of Palatia, at the edge of Naxos harbour. It is all that stands of a temple of Apollo that the ruler Lygdamis began around 530 BC and never finished. A causeway built in 1919 joins the islet to the town, so it is a short walk from the ferry port. Sunset draws the biggest crowds, so go at sunrise, when the light is soft and you may have the doorway almost to yourself.
- 2
The old town
Naxos Town, also called Chora, climbs from the harbour in a maze of white lanes, arches and steps. At the top sits the Kastro, the old Venetian quarter, with its castle walls, mansions and Catholic cathedral. Walk up in the late afternoon, when the lanes are shaded, then come back down to the waterfront for dinner. Wear comfortable shoes: the paving is uneven, and cars cannot enter the oldest streets, so park by the port.
- 3
Agios Prokopios
Agios Prokopios is one of the long sandy beaches on the west coast, a short drive or bus ride south of Naxos Town. The water is clear and shallow near the shore, which makes it easy for swimming. The coast carries on south past Agia Anna to Plaka, a quieter stretch of sand with fewer buildings behind it. In July and August come in the morning, before the afternoon wind picks up and the sunbeds fill.
- 4
Sunset
The sun sets over the sea to the west of Naxos, often behind the outline of Paros, the next island over. Good places to watch it are the harbour front, the Portara causeway and the beaches along the west coast. Many visitors book a sunset boat trip from the port, which usually includes a swim stop. If you prefer to stay on land, find a taverna table by the water early, as the best spots go first.
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Plan it
- Best time
- May, June and September are the best months: warm, with a sea warm enough to swim in and fewer visitors than in midsummer. July and August are the busiest and windiest months. From November to April many hotels and tavernas close.
- How long
- Three days covers the town, the beaches and one day inland. Five days or more lets you add the Mount Zas hike and a second island.
- Getting around
- Rent a car or a scooter to reach the inland villages; roads are good but narrow and winding in the mountains. Local buses link Naxos Town with the main beaches and villages.
Good to know
- Drive inland to Halki for the kitron distillery and to Apeiranthos for its marble-paved lanes.
- For Mount Zas, start from Aria Spring early in the morning, with water and good shoes.
- Book village tours, farm visits or cooking classes ahead in summer, as groups are small.
Frequently asked
Is Naxos worth visiting? +
Yes. Naxos is the largest island in the Cyclades and the most varied: long sandy beaches, a historic old town, the ancient Portara and mountain villages inland. It is also generally less crowded than Santorini or Mykonos, and it grows much of its own food.
How many days do you need in Naxos? +
Three days is enough for the highlights: one in Naxos Town, one on the beaches and one in the mountain villages. With five days or more you can add the Mount Zas hike, a boat trip, or a day trip to a nearby island such as Paros.
How do you get to Naxos? +
Ferries run from Piraeus and Rafina, the two ports of Athens, and also link Naxos with Paros, Mykonos and Santorini. There are also short flights from Athens to the island's small airport, just south of Naxos Town.
What is the Portara in Naxos? +
The Portara is a marble doorway, all that remains of a temple of Apollo begun around 530 BC and never completed. It stands on the islet of Palatia at the edge of Naxos harbour, joined to the town by a causeway, and is the island's best-known landmark.
