Portugal · Itineraries
One week in Portugal by car: Lisbon to Porto
A week is enough to drive from Lisbon to Porto the slow way. The route goes out to Sintra, north through the walled town of Óbidos to the coast at Nazaré, inland to the university town of Coimbra, and on to Porto. It is about 380 kilometres and under five hours of driving, so fly into one city and out of the other.
Day by day
- 1
Lisbon
Two nights to start. Lisbon is built on hills above the wide mouth of the river Tagus, and the old districts are a tangle of steep lanes, tiled house fronts and small squares. Old yellow trams still climb through Alfama, the oldest quarter. The city has a string of public viewpoints, called miradouros, and sunset from one of them is the classic end to a day. Belém, along the river, has the monastery and the tower from the age of exploration. You do not need a car here, so collect it when you leave.
- 2
Sintra
A day trip from Lisbon, or the first stop on the way north. Sintra is a small town in wooded hills where Portuguese royalty built summer palaces. Pena Palace, painted red and yellow on a hilltop, is the one in every photograph. Entry to the palace rooms is by timed ticket, and summer slots sell out, so book ahead. The Moorish Castle on the next ridge and Quinta da Regaleira in town fill the rest of the day. Parking near the palaces is very limited. Leave the car in town and take the bus up.
- 3
Óbidos
About an hour north of Sintra, and a stop of two to three hours. Óbidos is a small whitewashed town enclosed by a complete ring of medieval walls, with a castle at one end. One main street runs the length of it, lined with shops and houses trimmed in blue and yellow. You can walk along the top of the walls, which have no railing on the inner side, so take care. The local drink is ginjinha, a cherry liqueur, often served in a small chocolate cup. Park outside the gate.
- 4
Nazaré
Half an hour on, and one night by the sea. Nazaré is a fishing town with a long curve of sand and a headland at its northern end, reached by a funicular. Beyond the headland is Praia do Norte, where an underwater canyon produces some of the largest waves ever surfed. The giant swells come between October and March, mostly from November to February. In summer the sea off the main beach is calm and the town is a busy resort. The lighthouse fort on the point is the place to watch from.
- 5
Coimbra
An hour and twenty minutes inland. Coimbra rises from the Mondego river to a hilltop university founded in 1290, one of the oldest in Europe. The university courtyard, its chapel and the baroque Joanina Library are the main sights, and visits to the library run at set times, so reserve a slot. Below, the old town is a climb of narrow streets and stairways. Students in black capes are part of the scene in term time. One night is enough to see it and to hear Coimbra's own style of fado.
- 6
Porto
The end of the route, about an hour and a half north. Porto is stacked on a steep bank of the Douro river, with the Ribeira quarter along the water and church towers above. The two-level iron Dom Luís I bridge crosses to Vila Nova de Gaia, where the port wine houses have their cellars and offer tours and tastings. Two nights give time for both banks and a boat trip on the river. Return the car when you arrive. The centre is compact, hilly and better on foot.
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Plan it
- Best time
- May, June and September for warm days without the peak crowds. July and August are hot and busy. October to March is the season for the giant waves at Nazaré, with cooler, wetter weather.
- How long
- Seven days one way. With ten, add the Douro Valley from Porto or a few days in the Algarve before Lisbon.
- Getting around
- A one-way car rental from Lisbon to Porto. Some motorways charge tolls electronically with no booths. Rental cars carry a toll device and the charges are added to the bill.
Good to know
- Trains link Lisbon, Coimbra and Porto well. A car earns its place for Sintra, Óbidos and Nazaré.
- Pavements in the old towns are polished stone and slippery when wet. Wear shoes with grip.
- One-way rentals usually carry a drop-off fee. Check it before booking.
Frequently asked
Is one week enough for Portugal? +
Yes, for the stretch between Lisbon and Porto. A week covers both cities with two nights each and the towns in between. It does not leave time for the Algarve or the Douro Valley. With ten days to two weeks, add one of them.
Do you need a car to get from Lisbon to Porto? +
No. Direct trains run between the two cities in about three hours and stop at Coimbra. A car is worth having for the places the train does not serve well on this route: the palaces of Sintra, Óbidos and the coast at Nazaré.
How do tolls work in Portugal with a rental car? +
Many motorways have ordinary toll booths, and some are electronic only, with cameras on gantries and no way to pay on the spot. Rental cars are fitted with a toll device that records every charge. The rental company bills the tolls to your card afterwards.
When can you see the big waves in Nazaré? +
Between October and March, with the best chance from November to February. The waves depend on storms far out in the Atlantic, so they come on particular days, not all season. On a big day, watch from the lighthouse fort above Praia do Norte.