Albanian Riviera · Albania · This or that
Albania's Riviera instead of the Greek islands
The Albanian Riviera gives families clear Ionian water, pebble and sand beaches and mountain scenery at roughly half the price of a comparable Greek island week. The coast runs from Vlorë to Sarandë, with Ksamil, Dhërmi and Gjipë as the main beaches. It is less polished than Greece, with more cash, more rough roads and fewer ferries, but the sea is the same colour.
How they compare
- 1
Albania, across the water from Corfu
Albania's south coast sits directly across the channel from Corfu, and Sarandë has a ferry link to the island. That shows how close the two places are in geography. The difference is in cost. A family room, a rental car and a restaurant dinner on a Greek island in summer usually come to about double what they do on the Albanian coast, and more on the best-known islands. Expect simpler hotels, patchy signage and less choice, in exchange for much lower bills.
- 2
Same blue water, half the price
The Ionian Sea along the Riviera is clear, deep blue and often calm in summer, which is why the comparison with the Greek islands comes up. The savings show up in the three biggest lines of a trip: accommodation, food and the rental car. Beach clubs charge for sunbeds, but at a lower rate than in Greece. What you give up is polish. Services are less predictable, many places prefer cash, and the infrastructure is newer. Families who like a simple holiday will not mind.
- 3
Ksamil islets
Ksamil is the family beach town near the ancient site of Butrint, a few kilometres south of Sarandë. Its draw is a cluster of small islets just off the beach. Strong swimmers can reach the closest ones, and small boats or paddleboats take everyone else across. The beaches are sandy in patches and rocky in others, and most are run by beach clubs that rent sunbeds. Arrive before ten in summer to get a spot, and bring water shoes for the rocky entries.
- 4
Dhërmi beach
Dhërmi is a long pebble beach under steep mountains, with the old village higher up the hillside and beach bars along the shore. The water is clear and drops away quickly, so keep an eye on small children. The pebbles are hard on bare feet, so bring water shoes. In the peak weeks of July and August the beach clubs can be loud and lively in the evening. In June and September the beach is calmer, and it is easier to find a quiet corner.
- 5
Gjipë beach
Gjipë is a small cove at the mouth of a canyon, reached on foot from the road above, with a walk down that takes under an hour. Boat trips from nearby beaches also stop there. That effort keeps the crowds down, and the sandy beach and shallow water are good for children old enough to manage the hike. There is little shade or infrastructure, so carry water, sun cover and snacks, and leave time for the climb back up in the heat.
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Llogara Pass
Llogara Pass is the mountain road that links Vlorë and the northern Riviera, climbing to around a thousand metres through pine forest in Llogara National Park. It is the usual way in if you are coming from the north, and the first view of the coast at the top is the reason to stop. The road has tight bends, so anyone prone to car sickness should sit in front. The air is cooler at the top, which makes it a good place for a lunch break.
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Sarandë, your base
Sarandë is the practical base for a family. It has a seafront promenade, supermarkets, restaurants, and a range of hotels and apartments at lower prices than comparable Greek towns. From here you can reach Ksamil and Butrint in around twenty minutes by car, and the Riviera beaches by day trip. The town beach is pebbly, so most families use it for dinner and walks. Book ahead for July and August, and ask whether your apartment has air conditioning, which matters in summer.
Plan it
- Best time
- Late May to June and September are the best months: warm sea, open restaurants and thinner crowds. July and August are the hottest, busiest and most expensive.
- How long
- Five to seven days is enough to base in Sarandë, visit Ksamil and Butrint, and take a day along the Riviera to Dhërmi and Gjipë.
- Getting around
- A rental car is the easiest option, though roads are narrow and winding in places. Local minibuses link the main towns, and taxis are cheap for short hops.
Good to know
- Carry cash for beach clubs, parking and small restaurants.
- Bring water shoes, since many beaches are pebble or rock.
- Check whether your rental car includes cover for unpaved roads before heading to smaller coves.
Frequently asked
Is the Albanian Riviera as good as the Greek islands? +
For the sea, close to it. The water is clear and blue, and the mountain backdrop is strong. For polish, no: services are simpler, roads are rougher and there is less choice. Most families who go find the savings worth it.
Is the Albanian Riviera cheaper than Greece? +
Yes, noticeably. Accommodation, food and car hire usually cost around half what they do on a comparable Greek island, with a smaller gap during the busiest weeks of August in Ksamil.
Is the Albanian Riviera good for kids? +
Yes, with some planning. Ksamil has calm shallow water, while Dhërmi drops off quickly and has pebbles. Gjipë needs a walk. Water shoes and a rental car make everything easier.
How do you get from Corfu to Albania? +
By ferry or fast boat from Corfu town to Sarandë, which takes under two hours at most. Check the timetable in advance, since summer services are more frequent than winter ones, and bring passports.
